Spring CoreBroken Torsion Spring Replacement
A snapped coil above the door, a heavy door, and the matching measurements that decide the replacement.
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A broken spring makes a door heavy, crooked or stuck. Learn how it is recognised, measured, matched and balanced, and find help by ZIP code across 19 states.
A garage door that suddenly feels heavy, lifts crookedly, or will not move at all is usually a spring problem, not an opener problem. The first step is to stop running the opener on a heavy, crooked or jammed door, and to find out whether the spring, the cable, the track or the opener is at fault.
This site starts with the spring: how a broken torsion or extension spring is recognised, how a replacement is measured and matched, and how balance is tested before the opener is reconnected. General garage door services and guides sit alongside the spring pages, because opener, cable and track faults share the same symptoms and must be separated before any part is replaced.
Spring CoreA snapped coil above the door, a heavy door, and the matching measurements that decide the replacement.
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Spring CoreSprings along the tracks, safety cables, and why the pair must match each other.
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Spring CoreBoth springs share the same cycles, so a pair keeps the door lifting evenly from both sides.
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Spring CoreDrift, slam and creep are tension problems first, and the balance test proves it in seconds.
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Spring CoreCycle ratings explained as counts of use, and who actually benefits from a longer-rated spring.
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Spring CoreFrom track springs to a centre shaft: what changes, what headroom is needed, and when it pays.
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Spring CoreContainment cables that keep a breaking spring from travelling across the garage.
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Spring CoreThe drums, cables and bearings a new spring inherits, checked while the shaft is already open.
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Spring CoreStuck closed and stuck open are different emergencies, with different first steps.
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Spring CoreA planned check that finds fatigue, fraying and wear before they become a stuck door.
Read more →Separate the opener fault from the spring fault first, or the wrong part gets replaced.
Read more →Gear, board, sensor, remote and keypad tested in turn, so only the failed part is replaced.
Read more →The door's moving joints, inspected as a run rather than one part at a time.
Read more →A jammed, crooked door secured first, cause found second, track fixed third.
Read more →Per-spring, per-pair and total-job figures are not comparable, and this guide shows why.
Read more →Shaft above the door or springs along the tracks: identify your system in seconds.
Read more →Wire size, inside diameter, length and wind direction, and why a near miss will not balance.
Read more →Bang, heaviness, crookedness, reversing or drift, each matched to its most likely cause.
Read more →The homeowner checks that are safe, and the tension work that must never be done at home.
Read more →Find help by ZIP code across 19 states: 2,383 ZIP pages, each on its own page with its own local detail and FAQ, organised by state in ZIP order.
A loud bang, a visible gap in the coil above the door, or a door that suddenly feels far heavier than normal points to a broken spring in your garage. Stop using the opener and check the spring state before anything else.
No. Running the opener against a broken or unbalanced spring strains its gear and rail and can bend a track or snap a cable. Disconnect the opener and leave the door where it is.
Open the states page, find your state, then your ZIP code. If your ZIP code is not listed, call (877) 318-0816 and describe where the door is.
Leave the opener off and do not force the door. If the door is stuck closed, do not pull the emergency release cord while the door is under spring tension, and do not try to lift a door that feels far heavier than normal. If the door is stuck open, keep people and cars clear of the doorway and do not push it closed by force, because a door hanging on a broken spring or jumped cable can drop. Call (877) 318-0816 and say whether the door is stuck open or closed.